Below you will find a list of supplies that you may or may not need for your particular ding repair.  Additionally, people on a tight budget may be able to get around using certain things by improvising.  You are going to need some materials however.  Here is a list of things you should consider using..

Most of the things you see here can be purchased at Shop Mechanic.

Warning:  Many of the supplies that are used in board repairs are toxic to humans.  I do not claim to know what is and is not safe  Read all warning labels on products and understand the risks before using any of them.  Proceed at your own risk.

Resin:  There are two basic kinds of resins used to make skimboards, polyester and epoxy.  It is very important that you use the same kind of resin in your ding repair that your board is made of.  Epoxy doesn't bond to polyester resin very well and vice versa.  Most skimboards are made using polyester resin.  However some are made from epoxy so it pays to check before you make any mistakes.

Sandpaper:  You want to have at least three different kinds of sandpaper (rough medium and fine grits).  You want to have varying grits to that you can sand the repair down flush with the board.

Cloth:  You will definitely need some fiberglass.  Four ounce cloth is probably best because it is very flexible and you can just layer it for strength.  If your board was made using carbon fiber you probably want to use some of it for the repair as well since the dark color will help the repair blend into the board (there is little structural benefit).

Fillers:  The purpose of a filler is to give the resin more viscosity so you can shape it as well as providing structural benefits.  There are many different kinds of fillers out there.  Here are some of the most common.

• Milled Fiber - This is a structural filler that will add strength and thicken up the resin a lot.
• Q-Cells - These are tiny glass spheres which are sometimes referred to as micro balloons.  This is a lightweight filler and will not add structural strength.  It is usually used to fill small holes and facilitate easy sanding (very hazardous if inhaled).
• Cabosil - This is a thickening agent.  It is used to save resin and add some structural support.
• Flox (Ground Cotton) - This is a pretty heavy duty structural filler.

Acetone/Rubbing Alcohol:  These will be invaluable for cleaning the repair area and getting non-cured resin off of your hands.  (acetone is toxic)

Paper Towels:  Your going to need them, trust me.

Cup(s):  You gotta have somewhere to put your resin.  A large paper cup is one good place.

Tongue Depressor:  Used for mixing the resin and the catalyst in the cup as well as smearing thickened (filled) resin into and onto damaged areas.

Squeegee:  No, not the kind at the gas station.  A squeegee is essentially a rectangular piece of plastic about the size of a flash card.  It is used for saturating the cloth with resin.  (Can be substituted for with a brush in some cases)

Brush:  Also uses for saturating the cloth.  It should be about an inch wide and made of horsehair or durable strands that will not melt in resin.

Grinder:  This can be an actual tool or an attachment for a drill.  It is basically a small sanding disk.  It is not necessary for any job but can make life a lot easier. (Picture)

Dremel Tool:  It doesn't have to be an actual Dremel tool, but something similar.  It is used for carving out and cleaning up the repair area.  The bit on the tool should be very small, about 1/5 of an inch in diameter.  This will allow for more precision.  You can often buy attachments for a drill that will do the job.  For the poor man a simple drill bit can work if you have a steady hand and lots of patience. (Picture)

Scissors:  Used to cut the cloth and plastic.

Gloves:  Protects your hands from resins and acetone.  Surgical gloves work best.

Pigments:  Ding repairs are white (or black if you use carbon).  Colored pigments added to the resin can help make the repair match the color of your board.